TUSCANY FOR FOODIES: MAREMMA WINE AND FOOD SHIRE, MAY 2013

In its third year the Maremma Wine and Food Shire has changed approach and moved the fair from Braccagni into Grosseto's historic town center. Originally designed for trade, Maremma's wine and food fair is also a great place for any foodies hooked on Southern Tuscany's locally produces delicacies. Taste your way through sheep cheese from the Tuscan hills, organically produced wine, salami and prosciutto, saffron, pickled vegetables and fish egg (bottarga) from the coast. 

All of it in the lay-back center of one of Tuscany's lesser known cities. Grosseto may not be able to compete with Siena, Pisa or Florence when it comes to art and culture. But the city makes up for it with a car and tourist free town center, historic city walls, friendly inhabitants and noteworthy architectural details if you only care to look out for them. 

Maoist China?
A Tuscan cyclist on Grosseto's main shopping road 

HOW TO START MAY IN TUSCANY

With spring in full swing, first of May isn't just the start of a glorious month in Tuscany, but also a much celebrated national holiday. I've just overlooked the cooking process of this year's sagra in Sant'Angelo Scalo (one of my favorite village fairs), and think there's no better way to start the month than with a fork and knife in hand in this little hamlet in Montalcino's south-western corner. 

This is what the village ladies have in store for you: 

Tuscan village fairs? Examples of female team work 

Home-made tomato sauce for everybody

TREKKING CINIGIANO - CASTIGLIONCELLO BANDINI, MAY 2013

If you've been quietly following my photo stream on Instagram or Facebook, you may have been wondering about the exact location of the Sunday walks we've been taking this spring. 

Not that I'd tell you. 

I prefer to keep the hills of our valley to ourselves. Just the thought of a fellow hiker getting to the wild asparagus a few minutes before me; or a loud American tour group spoiling our calm morning in the fields...

SATURNIA: THE QUEEN OF TUSCANY'S NATURAL HOT SPRINGS

The real deal: Saturnia rock pools in Southern Tuscany

The most famous and also the busiest of Tuscany's natural hot springs lie close to Montemerano in the southern tip of the region. Saturnia's wild pools even have their own facebook page (with more than 5000 fans last time I've checked). Whilst Saturnia wasn't quite an insider's tip when I first soaked there in the 90s, it definitely has become even better known in the 21st century - at least to judge from the recent parking area and the outdoor coffee bar right on the footpath which leads down to the natural springs. 

Saturnia's rock pools are popular for a reason. Quite apart of the history telling us about Etruscans bathing there and Romans giving the thermal bath its Saturnian name, the wild Cascate del Mulino (the waterfalls of the mill) are a stunning sight in the midst of a tranquil little valley. And the mineral properties of the warm water are supposed to sort out (or at least calm down) many an aching bone, persistent cough or ailment of the skin. But whatever the possible medical benefit - a dip in Saturnia's natural hot springs is no doubt bliss for the soul! 

Always a lovely sight

MOUNT AMIATA, TUSCANY OFF-THE-BEATEN-PATH: PIEVE DI LAMULA

Church lovers have endless selection in Tuscany. Roofless San Galgano, Romanesque Sant'Antimo near Montalcino or the Monte Olivieto abbey in the Crete Senesi are some of the most famous cathedrals and monasteries in the South of the region. But if you cruise the Tuscan hills, always keep an eye out for the small Pievi, the fascinating and often very beautiful countryside churches. 

La pieve di Lamula with Mount Amiata in the background

The pieve di Lamola is one of them. Hidden away between Arcidosso and Casteldelpiano the small church was an outlet of the famous San Salvatore abbey on the slopes of Mount Amiata. 

Even though the facade dates back to the first half of the 20th century, the pieve managed to keep many of the pagan symbols and the calm ambiance so typical of Tuscany's countryside churches. 

Inscription on a pillar inside the church