My favorite Tuscan wineries use organic or sustainable approaches to winemaking. But what is it all about? Read Carlo Pandian's take on the biodynamic and organic wine movement in Tuscany.
When you think
of Tuscan wines, the words natural and organic probably aren’t the first to
spring to mind. More likely you'll think of Chianti Classico or the bottles hailing
from Montalcino – Italian appellations that incorporate the history and tradition that
the region is famed for. Nevertheless, like in other winemaking regions throughout
the world, a committed group of producers have contributed to the growth of
natural wines in Tuscany in recent years. But what is 'natural' wine and how has
this philosophy impacted upon this famous area?
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Manual only vineyard work at the biodynamic winery La Maliosa in Southern Tuscany |
For a wine to be labelled ‘biodynamic’,
the already organic vineyard must have been subjected to the very specific nine
biodynamic preparations advocated by the Austrian philosopher Rudolf
Steiner in the 1920s. This thinking has a more spiritual bent, influenced by
a belief in the impact of lunar movements and the natural rhythms of nature. Whether a producer decides to follow an organic or biodynamic route, these
methods can both be described as ‘natural’.
So how has this
thinking influenced Tuscan producers? Like I mentioned before, Italian wine is
still more closely associated with tradition over something that many perceive
to be more new wave and modern. But throughout Tuscany, there is a constantly growing number of wineries, which adopt more natural practices.
One of those taking the step further to organic certification is Gualdo del Re, situated in Suvereto in
Southern Tuscany. The owners felt that seeking out certification was essential in
securing the trust of increasingly environmentally-conscious customers. La Fornace, run by
the Gianetti family is a good example of a sustainable producer in Montalcino. The estate's Brunello wines prove that it is possible to adhere to the traditions of
a famous wine region whilst adopting a more modern, ecological approach. And Tenuta
Fontodi has shown that using biodynamic methods in Chianti Classico can
produce great results.
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Vineyards of the Col d'Orcia winery. Montalcino's biggest organic Brunello producer |
The success of
these producers proves that the natural wine movement has well and truly taken
hold in the most traditional of areas, with Tuscany now having over twice as
many organic producers as any other leading wine region in Italy.
Whereas some
in the trade have suggested that the natural wine ‘fad’ is on the wane, the
enthusiasm for its results in both passionate producers and interested consumers
shows that this is more than just a passing phase in Italian, and more
specifically, Tuscan wine production. And despite its ‘modern’ label, what could
be more traditional than a passion for a natural process that expresses the true
nature of the Tuscan terroir?
Carlo is an Italian expat based in London who loves wine. Get in touch with him @carlopandian.
Carlo is an Italian expat based in London who loves wine. Get in touch with him @carlopandian.