Ever wanted to swim or walk from Tuscany to Lazio? That's exactly what I did during our week at La Dogana beach. My kids jumped waves in the Tuscan sea and I kept fishing them out in the northernmost corner of Lazio (the Italian region Rome belongs to).
Dogana means customs in Italian, and what is now a stylish brolly and deck chair rental, was once a checkpoint on the border of Papal State and Gran Duchy of Tuscany (and entirely free of sunburnt Swiss moms running from one side to the other).
But La Dogana beach has more to offer than borderline swims and history lessons. Every summer, the team of Grosseto's restaurant Rosso e Vino moves pots, pans and ladles to the shore for the season and turns La Dogana beach into the perfect location for a meal with a view.
And not just any meal. Being located on the Tuscan coast restaurant Rosso e Vino is, of course, a seafood specialist. But as so often, it's the skillful use of simple ingredients, which best reveals a chef's true talent: the first fork from my plate of tomato spaghetti and I knew I would be back. Daily.
By the end of the week one of the waiters told me that the Rosso e Vino team regularly visits selected tomato farmers to find the sweetest tasting fruits for their salsa di pomodoro. I wasn't surprised.
Rosso e Vino has two separate lunch and dinner menus. Dinners are a more elegant and expensive affair (show off with your new Italian outfit), whilst lunches are tailored for lay-back beach-goers (however, a nice shirt won't harm).
You can also just visit the bar for an ice-cream, cocktail or one of Rosso e Vino's refreshing caffè shakerato (iced coffee).
|Plenty of caffè shakerato needed after all that running down to Lazio|
ROSSO E VINO ALLA DOGANA
Restaurant with beach bar and deckchair rental on the coast of Capalbio, in località Gratticiaia. Take the Chiarone Scalo exit from the Auralia motorway and follow to the sea.
Open from Easter to end of September (during the rest of the year on reservation as a location for weddings, birthdays and other private celebrations).
Reservation recommended: +39 0564 890344
Deckchairs can be rented on a weekly or on a daily base.
For more info and things to do in the area read A Weekend in Capalbio.